Photographs: David Straight
Quite often, the pleasure in fish and chips is circumstantial: eating them on a wharf, say, fending off seagulls or sitting on a beach as the sun goes down. As long as the fish isn’t too overdone and the batter isn’t undercooked, you’re happy.
Sometimes, though, it’s about the fish and the batter, and this is where Marsic Brothers comes in. You’ll find them in a 1960s strip mall development in Glen Innes, which isn’t exactly the most auspicious of places – you could, at a stretch, make a quick trip from here to Mission Bay or St Heliers, but then your greasies might get cold.
There are daily specials on the fish – once, we had hapuku, which we can heartily recommend despite feeling slightly guilty at using such a fine fish for such a prosaic purpose. The batter is that perfect shade of gold between bronze and yellow and there is just enough of it, and the fish doesn’t slide out of its batter casing: there is serious technical skill in all of this. The chips, meanwhile, are hand cut. We can also highly recommend the smoked fish, particularly the smoked fish roe: they take superbly fresh fish and smoke it so it’s still tender and not too smoky; there is no leather here. Then – and I am assured that you may do this – you sneak out to your car, rip the paper apart and eat it right there in the parking lot. The beach can wait. SFG
HOURS Monday to Friday, 6am to 6.30pm; Saturday until 1.30pm.
ADDRESS 47 Mayfair Place, ph 528 9556.
IMPORTANT DETAILS Take in your own catch and they’ll smoke the fish for you.