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Bicycles outside Relae

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Assistens Cemetery

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Rugbrod and sourdough from Meyers Bageri

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Ol & Brod

Photographs: Laura Forest

Last year, chef Ed Verner and his partner, photographer Laura Forest, decamped to Copenhagen where Ed cooked in some of the city’s best restaurants and Laura took photographs, and when they weren’t doing that they relished the unique food scene that the city has developed in recent years. Naturally, we asked them to write up their favourite joints – the city has more to it than Noma. (About which – even chef/photographer combos writing for websites can’t get in, so we haven’t featured it.)

A fresh take on fine dining: loud music, candlelight and a dynamic art collection – ask for a seat at the bar overlooking the enigmatically dark kitchen. Chef Bo Bech’s menu has 30 dishes on it, including grilled avocado and almond, lobster tartare with hibiscus, air in air tiramisu. The petit four cloud of candy floss dusted in lemon and licorice was the perfect end to our playful meal.

Bornholm in the Baltic Sea is the inspiration for Kadeau’s philosophy, wooden interior, ceramics and ingredients. Experience the ‘New Nordic’ phenomenon through flavours unlocked by fermenting, pickling and smoking. Enjoy foraged elderflower, beach rose, chanterelles, and wild herbs such as beach mustard, coriander grass and spruce, presented like small works of art. Try a juice pairing – handcrafted with complexity and character to stand up to their adventurous wine list.

There are no white tablecloths here, just thoughtful provocation from Christian Puglisi’s daily tasting menus (omnivore or herbivore). The service and ambience are stripped right back to the small things which really matter, and places the food first. Booking is essential.

Manfreds & Vin
If you can’t get into Relae, try Manfreds & Vin across the street for a relaxed, rustic and experimental meal designed for sharing – their sourdough bread and tartare are legendary. Both restaurants are dedicated to organic produce and local connections.

Torvehallerne Market
Biodynamic and local green grocers, flowers, herbs, cheeses, charcuterie, wines, pasta, butchers and seafood – but we can’t leave without cured meat from Omegn and smoked cheese curd from Ulrika. Best enjoyed as a makeshift picnic with fresh sourdough bread on a bench in the Botanical Gardens a block away.

Meyers Bageri
Line up for kanelsnurrer pastries (a croissant swirl, spun through with cinnamon and marzipan), sourdough and – get this – rugbrod sjokolade, a rye loaf that fits in your hand and bursts with melted dark chocolate, nuts and seeds. Multiple locations but the original, modest bakery at Jaegersborggade is our favourite. For a cosy afternoon, choose several oven-warm treats, pick up a cortado from Coffee Collective across the road and stroll over to a bench at Assistens Cemetry, used as a park by locals, where some of the most famous Danes are laid to rest in beautiful gardens.

Devoted to porridge and grains in all its forms: try rye bread porridge cooked in beer and beet juice, topped with hazelnuts, fruit compote and coriander syrup. Located at Torvehallerne and Jaegersborggade.

An institution for stellar cocktails and Copenhagen style. Try the Nordic take on a lassi with Icelandic skyr yogurt and rose hips. Or a bramble, zingy with wild blackberries and delicate spice.

Ol & Brod
The best smorrebrod (traditional open-faced rye sandwich) in Copenhagen, paired with some of the best beer in the world by Mikkeller – the beef tartare and tarragon paired with wild yeast beer is epic. The restaurant is beautiful, too.


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