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APERO

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Photographs: David Straight

There on that little windswept bit of K Road just up from Mercury Lane, where there is Family Bar on one side and Calendar Girls on the other and plenty of karaoke, you’ll find Apero. It’s the first restaurant of Leslie Hottiaux and Mo Koski, who used to work for the likes of Sidart. She cooks; he runs the floor. It’s simple, with brick walls and timber tables. It’s a wine bar, with really bloody good food and great service.

Here’s a trick: order a bottle of red wine, a good one, and then just ask Mo to feed you: it will be exactly the right amount and you won’t spend too much. Recently, we ate a burrata with heirloom tomatoes and basil ($16) which was magnificent – simple, but magnificent – and a fabulous chunky terrine ($18). We ate goat’s cheese croquettes ($8) that served to define what goat’s cheese croquettes should be – a perfect chevre, panko crumbs, thyme honey. There was a trevally cerviche ($15) made with tiny little pieces of avocado and pomegranate that was one of the most elegant things we’ve eaten this year.

And there was sausage: Hottiaux is French, and she makes the entire thing herself before getting the meat put in the casings at Neat Meat. You can order it by the quarter metre and it comes on a wooden board with mustard and little else, and it is beautiful – chunky as all hell and full of flavour. I want to buy some for home. SFG

HOURS Open Wednesday to Monday from 4; lunch on Fridays.

ADDRESS 280 Karangahape Road, ph 373-4778. apero.co.nz

IMPORTANT DETAILS Home-made sausage. This is all you need to know.

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