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Photographs: David Straight

There are many reasons to go to Panmure: the lagoon, that great sign on the awful roundabout, and increasingly, some brilliant ethnic food. There’s the joint serving some of the best Peking duck in town, and there’s the Sri Lankan supermarket but – most importantly – there is the splendidly named Blossom Court. (There’s another Malaysian that gets a lot of reviews: Blossom is much better.)

It’s plain, as you’d expect: a couple of posters; a map on the wall with a pin in it showing the island of Penang, which is where the chefs come from, and this is very exciting because it means you’ll find that most unheard of thing, an assam laksa – it’s like a curry laksa, only it has a dark sauce and a sweet-sour punch that is utterly addictive. Unfortunately, it’s not the best we’ve ever eaten, but we forgive them. We do this because everything else we’ve eaten was utterly brilliant, and clearly we’re not alone: on a recent Saturday, you couldn’t get a table and we wound up sharing with a woman who crosses town every Saturday to get a special takeout lunch from here.

The menu stretches from the standard Malaysian favourites, through to some much less common dishes. They do one of the city’s best char kuey teow: it is perfectly smoky, and it comes with that particular type of Malaysian sausage that so many CKTs don’t come with, and plenty of chilli. The sambal eggplant is gooey, and the sambal is nicely thick and plenty hot. But the menu also has some surprises, chief among them “marmite chicken”, which is pieces of fried chicken, doused in a dark sauce – it is at once sweet, savoury and tangy, and particularly fabulous. Go now. SFG

HOURS Lunch, 10.30am to 3pm; dinner 5pm to 9pm. Closed Tuesday.

ADDRESS 135 Queens Road, Panmure, ph 527 7022.

IMPORTANT DETAILS Pop across the road to the Sri Lankan supermarket and buy (a) treacle and (b) yoghurt. Breakfast Of Champions.


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