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Photographs: David Straight

Burger Burger is very small and very narrow and very loud: we like to sit at the bar overlooking the kitchen. The service has attitude, just enough. The burgers are $10 and extras – lettuce, cheese, bacon, etc – are $2, the sides are $6, and they cook the patties medium-rare. The meat is free range. There is a great whisky list and Lion Red in big swappa bottles. Oh, and there’s Martinborough Te Tera pinot noir by the glass. So far, so genius.

It’s the latest venture from Mimi Gilmour, one of the founders of Mexico, and some of the hallmarks are the same: it’s not very expensive, it has pace and bounce, and the booze flows freely. You can eat a burger and a beer and leave for less than $20, which we like very much. And so, at the moment, if you go for dinner the wait is anywhere between half an hour and an hour.

There have been quibbles, though not from us. Never have we heard such earnest discussion of a burger. We’ve had some great burgers here – you must have the fish and make sure you add lettuce, and the classic beef is excellent – and we’ve had a couple of not-great burgers. But think about it for a second: this place costs less than most takeout burger joints, only here there is table service and you can get a stool and a beer. It’s fun. And the vanilla thick shake is a thing of beauty. SFG

HOURS 11.30am until late, seven days

ADDRESS The Lane, Ponsonby Central, 136 Ponsonby Road.

IMPORTANT DETAILS There is 30 minutes free parking in the Ponsonby Central park out the back.

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