Photographs: David Straight
There is no pissing about here. Eden Noodles sits on a windswept stretch of Dominion Road where it is virtually a motorway, near the Target and the Chinese supermarket. It is small and narrow – a handful of tables, an open kitchen with a couple of short-order cooks, baskets of noodles bubbling away.
Arrive before 12 – maybe even earlier, since it opens at 11am and is instantly busy – or you’ll wait in a queue that stretches out the door. You order at the counter, fetch your own cutlery, and then you eat and you get out and let someone from the queue have your table. There is a simple reason for this: these are some of the best Sichuan noodles in Auckland.
Specifically, Dan Dan noodles ($11). The holy of noodle holies – the last time I ate them this good was in a bus station canteen in the soupy heat of a Chengdu summer, a dish that has stuck in my memory as the dish all noodles should live up to. Here, the noodles come in a big stainless-steel bowl – slightly firm, hand-rolled, with crunchy pork mince in a chilli-oil soup and a token pickled green in the top. It is a dish of great simplicity and it’s numbing rather than burning and I would eat it every day if I could. There are also dumplings in “spicy sauce” ($3.50 for five), which is at once sweet and hot, and do try a fabulous dish of “fungus with special sauce” ($6) – wood ear mushrooms, slightly crunchy, with a peppery, numbing dressing. It is heaven, in the most prosaic of surroundings and in this way it is just about perfect. SFG
HOURS Monday to Saturday, 11am to 9.30pm.
ADDRESS 105 Dominion Road, Mt Eden, ph 630-1899.
IMPORTANT DETAILS Make sure you order the “handneed” noodles. All noodles are good. These are better.