[Photographs: David Straight]
Almost at the bottom of Dominion Road, opposite the shop selling kava and groceries from Fiji, and next to the Taiwanese takeout and near the Malaysian selling goat curry – both of which we intend to get back to soon – you’ll find Sasuma. It’s a small shopfront, very clean. It opened but two months ago, and we were alerted to it by our friend Gary Steel, who writes about vegetarian food over here.
Sasuma serves Gujarati food, which is vegetarian. Not that it lacks for anything. It’s home food, not restaurant food – they describe it as “Mother In Law’s Recipe”, since the cuisine has never been commercialised or toned down for European palates. During the week, they serve a thali, three curries with yellow rice and buttermilk and a nicely oily roti – $12.50 and exceptionally good value. The curries are lightly spiced, fragrant: on a recent lunch there was a light potato curry with mustard seed, there was a tomato one with sago and – heaven – there was an eggplant one, smoky and unctuous. The buttermilk was sweet, and intended to be spooned over the rice: rich and flavourful. And we ate a dahi puri – sweeter than Satya‘s, and filled with liquid yoghurt.
But the big delight is that because Sasuma is family owned, the service is enthusiastic and friendly. Funny even. We asked whose mother-in-law’s recipes they were. “That depends,” said the owner with a grin, “on whether you mean my mother-in-law or my wife’s mother-in-law.” SFG
HOURS Monday to Sunday, 11am to 10pm.
ADDRESS 1278 Dominion Road Mt Roskill, ph 620-9955. sasuma.co.nz
IMPORTANT DETAILS There’s a limited menu during the week, with a broader menu on the weekend.